Tag Archives: Painting

Salute 2014 – Dreadball


The Floating Citadel denizens made their annual pilgrimage to Salute – more on that in another post; to cut a long story short I am now a proud owner of Dreadball – a game I have been meaning to get my hands on for over a year.

In true servitob style, the test minis were up and painted within a matter of hours of the box being opened. The technique used here is apparently called “Greyscale Washing”, if any of you googlespiders want to know more details I can point you in the right direction.

The aim was to do something very quick to make the game playable in the shortest amount of time. Mantic stuff is so cheap that if I ever miraculously got enough quality time for actually giving a damn about multi-layer highlights and all that nonsense then I could simply buy new teams. For now, I consider 2.4 seconds a reasonable amount of time to spend per model.

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I’ve also read through the rules – it looks like a very promisingly fun game!

Super Dungeon Explore Deeproot Druid


SDE Druid

Whilst looking for inspiration I stumbled upon this fine piece of work.

This is one of the best paint jobs I have seen in a long time; it took me a few glances to notice that it was actually a pair of miniatures and not a piece of drawn artwork. I especially love the non-metallic gold work on the bear, I hope you would agree!

The source can be found here: http://hard-liners.blogspot.co.uk/2012/08/super-dungeon-explore-part-3.html

Super Dungeon Explore Royal Paladin


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It’s been a while since I picked up a paintbrush so recently I spent a bit of time painting this up.

It all started last week when a friend a I went to Games Lore. SDE is a good fun game, so I was planning to pick it up at some point. I’d hate to be in the predicament of it going out of print and then having to fork out to pick up a shoddy copy on fleabay when the kids are old enough to play it. We got a tour of the place and I bought a copy for myself.

It’s been good fun getting back into painting. Normally I paint really fast using a black undercoat. This was the first time in about twenty years where I’ve painted off a white undercoat. The differences are startling. With a white undercoat the colours are much more vivid, however brush precision is essential as you have to cover every part of the mini to get a decent result. To aid this I used some flow enhancer which helped a lot. With a black undercoat colours are much more muted and often require several layers to get the correct colour, however any parts you don’t paint simply look shaded. Obviously all you long standing and reading googlespiders know all this already as there are loads of decent articles on mini painting out there on the internet, but nothing beats licking that brush tip and getting stuck in!

Experiments In Painting Part 2 – Wehrmacht Warhammer 40k Ork Boyz


Yesterday’s post left you googlespiders with a bit of a cliffhanger as to what happened to the other half of my box of ork boyz, well now you know! I got busy with the brush, cracked out the Flames of War paintset and churned out these Heer-os!

This could actually be quite a good army theme, especially if one can get one’s grubby paws on some ork sized stahlhelms and orky balkenkreuzen. Sometimes though it’s one thing to get an idea and do some testers, and a whole world of difference to actually get the project to table. Heck that could take all week!

Experiments In Painting – British Army Napoleonic Redcoat Warhammer 40k Ork Boyz


Old servitob must be going crazy or something in his old age because last week whilst on his lunchbreak he walked into a Games Workshop store and bought something!

To be straight I just fancied painting something; so here you are folks.

The older ones among you may recall a fantasy Napoleonic game called Flintloque; where the British orcs led by Lord Wheeling-Turn and the invincible Dick Shark and his band of merry riflemen would go up against French Elves. I can’t remember the game being all that great but the idea was pretty amusing. Is my paintjob a coincidence?

If you’re still awake at this point you may have noticed that the picture has five orks in it. Wot’s append to da uvver boyz den?

We Won!


I suppose I should explain the title of this post.  A few of you may remember a post I wrote about a year ago showing off some models that I had painted in my first excursion into historical wargaming.  I had always wanted to get into this genre, but had never got around to it until recently.

My local independent retailer & associated gaming club started to organise and run a campaign based around the Civil War (that would be the English Civil War in case you were wondering); it looked good and I decided to get involve.  As you probably have guessed by now the campaign has reached a conclusion – we won!  I was playing the part of one of the Scot’s Covenanter; namely Archibald Campbell.  The campaign was based upon the First Civil War starting with the initial outbreak of war between the Royalists and the Parliamentarians.  At this stage of the Civil Wars the Scottish government (dominated by the Covenanters) sided with the English Parliament, and so in the campaign the three Covenanter players fought against the King.  For the campaign victory conditions were set (including the capture of certain territories and certain special characters), and then the games begun.  A few days ago the Royalist surrendered unconditionally.  To be honest their situation was’t good.  With about 9 players on each side we had managed to capture the King and the Royalist war time leader Prince Rupert.  We had captured the main port of Bristol, along with much of the Royalist territory.  They still had most of Wales and Cornwall, but they had lost all but two of their cities; namely Shrewsbury and Worcester and they were both under siege (yours truly was pounding the walls of Shrewsbury).  If they had lost these, and there was no way of relieving them in time, then all of their armies would have been out of supply and it would have been pretty much game over.  So as it happens they chose to surrender.  So WOOHOO!

For me the whole thing has been great fun, despite my many defeats as I learnt how the system works (most notably to Montrose).  For the campaign we started off using Warlord Games’ Black Powder rules.  This is a rules set based on the musket era.  Once Warlord heard of what we were doing they started working on a Pike & Shotte era rules set that we then play tested.  We went through a couple of revisions and helped to provide valuable feedback to Warlord.  Our club and independent store even got a mention in the recently released Pike & Shotte rulebook, which was cool.  That was another first for me; play testing.  I’ve been meaning to write a few comments about these rules, and I will get around to that soon.  For now here’s a few pictures of the army I used.

I will be the first to admit that they aren’t my finest painted models, but when you think that I painted most of the army in just 3 weeks, they’re not that bad.  The army consists of;

  • General Archibald Campbell plus battalion commanders for the 8 battalions my army is divided into
  • 5 Pike Blocks with 2 Musket Wings each
  • 4 units of Scot’s Lancers
  • 2 Cavalry units
  • 2 Highlander units (note the one showing off his buttocks)
  • 1 Skirmisher unit
  • 9 Frame Guns
  • 6 Sakers
  • 1 Mortar
That works out as a total of 372 models (if you count the cannons & crews separately).

I do have a couple of units that I never finished painting in time (though as I have them I’ll still paint them up and put them in the army).  Future plans for the army?  The club is looking at doing the Second Civil War, plus friendly games.  Overall it has been a great experience for me.  Glory to Scotland!

The Devlan Mud of Drybrushing?


Following on from my last post I am getting on with constructing my 15mm Second World War force. For the first time ever rather than plunging straight in with sprays and Army Painter dips I’ve been trawling the likes of Youtube for new and interesting painting techniques. Obviously servitob style rapid speed painting is still the order of the day but I’m always willing to integrate new ideas. The Tamiya Weathering Master was one product which I liked the look of. So far I’m really impressed. It’s a powdery type material that comes with it’s own applicator which you use to dust the stuff on. It works like a really simple and effective drybrush technique without all that brush wiping hassle.

Another technique I have been trying is the use of window cleaner in ink washes. I’ve been using vallejo umber shade wash and diluting it with window cleaner to various ratios. So far I’ve found that for vehicles a mix of about 1:1 wash to window cleaner is about right. The science behind this is that the detergent in the window cleaner lowers the surface tension in the water based ink allowing it to flow better. I once added some washing up liquid to a waterslide at a kid’s birthday party to obtain this effect. The kids were loving it as they approached warp speed much to the horror of the mums present. Geek dad is awesome! The water molecules in the ink bunch up a lot less easily and so will tend to slide off flat surfaces and into recesses. This is important on large flat vehicle surfaces. Window cleaner makes a good detergent because it is transparent. Washing up liquid would also work but the artificial colouration might add an extra sheen to your model.

So I’ve finished my first two test models using these new found techniques. They are by The Plastic Soldier Company, including decals. They are in the photo at the top of this post, see what you think!

Chaos Space Marines by J, Aged 11


J is eleven years old at the moment, and when he’s not too busy doing homework or getting into mischief with his siblings he occasionally joins the 6InchMove crew for a bit of 40k. He has been collecting an horde of spikey boys for a few months now, and has been gradually learning the arts of gaming and miniature painting.

Here are his first finished models:

Nice Work J!

6 Inch Move Review – How to Improve Your Painting – the Wet Palette


In painting circles there are times when you hear about things that other people do/use. A lot of the time I’d dare to see that some advice goes unheeded as we badger on doing the same thing we’ve done since we first put paint brush to pewter. However, to counter balance that there are times when we actually look at something that has either been on our minds for a while or comes along out of the blue that we decide to have a go with and it completely changes our outlook.

The concept of the wet palette is not new to me. I have heard of it many times over the years but have also heard that they were actually quite tricky to work with. Hence I’ve used a traditional palette for my paints and therefore have a nice sheet of plastic that has a good couple of millimetres of dried on paint covering it.

As I was doing my normal forum browsing over a lunchtime at work I came upon a thread on the Privateer Press forums. I can’t remember the exact title (and am too lazy to look it up and link it) that went something like “List of things that have improved my painting the most.” Things like these are always worth a look in my book. You waste nothing by having a look at other people’s tips and can maybe pick up a gem that sorts you out with a technique that does really transform the way you paint your figures. Near the top of the list was using a wet palette, now you can buy one if you feel so inclined but there were numerous people espousing the virtues of making your own. So it was that after a quick Google I had a raft of guides on making your own and last Saturday I did just that.

I took a Warmachine blister pack, placed the model on my painting table with all the parts, put the cards in protective sleeves and then got some greaseproof paper out the kitchen. I then placed the foam from the blister back inside and started to fill it with water. I made sure that the foam was properly saturated and then drained off the excess water, ensuring that there was enough still in there that when I pressed the foam a small puddle formed at the point of contact. I then cut a piece off the greaseproof paper slightly smaller than the foam, placed it on the foam and pressed it to get it wet, I then flipped the paper over and did the other side to prevent curling.

The result was something that looks exactly like the picture at the top of this post, however, that was from an image search as I have no photos of my own effort. So, what has the wet palette done for me?

The beauty of the wet palette is that it keeps your paint wet! Sounds obvious really but you have no idea how brilliant it is until you try it, you don’t waste any paint as it just doesn’t dry out as you are applying it to your models. It also removes the need to thin your paints as the water is right there on the paper. The reason I used the blister pack to do it is because you can then close the clamshell to stop it drying out, which it will do as natural evaporation takes place. The paint that I used over the weekend on my Kabalite Warriors is still wet in it, although there isn’t a lot on the paper as I’ve used it on the models.

I’m amazingly impressed with the way the thing works, it was easy to make and has made a huge difference to painting for me. No more painting in that time when the paint is still liquid but starting to dry, everything is wet and smooth all the time, I’m really looking forward to see how this improves things as I mix the various colours I’ll be using to highlight with. Should the Fates conspire to allow me the time to finish my unit of Warriors I’ll try to get some photos up to show the first unit I’ve painted using the wet palette but I would seriously recommend using one to anyone who is serious about their painting.