Category Archives: Tutorials

Warlord Games Bolt Action US Infantry


15-01-13 002I recently got hold of a US Army Box from Warlord Games for their 28mm miniatures game, Bolt Action.

I think the figures are great! In true middle aged man fashion the first thing I did was discard the instructions and get on with painting and assembly only to find that nothing fit properly. One digging of the instructions out of the bin later and things went much more smoothly. In true Warlord fashion the sprues come with kitchen sink-esque assembly options; bazookas, tommy guns, grease guns, Springfields, sniper rifles, pistols, BARs, Garands, in fact pretty much everything any self respecting Europe liberating GI would need.

Paintwork is in my regular speedy style, although this time quite leisurely just doing half an hour per day or so. It soon adds up! Not wanting to spend ages researching to find just the right shade of olive paint I simply bought the Flames of War US paint set by Vallejo and went with that.

Here’s how I did it:

1) Spray sprues with Halford’s Matt Black Primer (a really good spray, comes in really big cans).

2) Paint base colours with models still on the sprues. I find this works really well for me as I have full easy access to every part of the model.

3) Assemble miniatures, adding more basecolour to bits where the sprues attached as required.

4) Paint base with some of GWs brown textured paint – a really good idea from the sheriff, does take some practice.

5) Wash with brown ink, in this case the vallejo stuff.

6) Drybrush with Tamiya Weathering Master Light Sand – this stuff is amazing!

7) Spray with Army Painter Anti-Gloss Matt Varnish.

8) Stick static grass to base with PVA glue.

When doing this kind of thing though I always do a couple of test models, as there is nothing worse than finding out that you don’t really like the finished result but you’ve spent all afternoon painting an entire platoon. There is more stuff in the box to do besides infantry, there’s an M3 Halftrack, some infantry support weapon teams and a venerable Sherman. I’ll try to keep you googlespiders up to date!

Skaven eXtreme Speed Painting


6InchMove brings you the latest in extreme speed painting, from sprue to finish in under thirty seconds!

We do this kind of stuff so you don’t have to. Remember kids, servitob is a trained speedfreak / moron, your mileage may vary.

Don’t try this at home! (unless they’re not your miniatures)

40k Space Marines: Mr Lazy Has Been Painting Death Company Blood Angels With The Army Painter Quickshade Part 2


Not so long ago I wrote about my initial experiences with a painting system called ‘The Army Painter’ (here)

Well, I’ve been experimenting further with this system for the benefit of all of our regular reading and painting googlespiders and I think I’m beginning to get the hang of it. So without much further ado or fanfare may I present to you my latest speedpainting creations:

The actual technique hasn’t changed much:

1 ) Spray sprues with ‘The Army Painter’ dragon red (ooh I love these sprays)
2 ) Paint bolters with mithril silver
3 ) Assemble models
4 ) Paint details in base colours (eg skulls, seals, badges, black bits of armour etc)
5 ) Dip the whole model into the pot of ‘The Army Painter Quickshade’ (dark tone)

6 ) Shake off excess Don’t bother with shaking it off as per official instructions. I have learned that this often leaves a fat coat of dark tone in inappropriate places. I have taken to (much to the amusement of Mrs Serbitob) attaching the model to a long shoelace and spinning quickly it around my head in the garden to remove the excess. A five second spin seems about right. Any more and too much quickshade ends up on the house and not enough on the model.

7 ) Leave to dry for at least 24 hours

There’s a real close up for your inspection. Again, they’re never going to win Golden Demon, but this technique is super fast. I reckon a total time of 5-10 minutes painting per model. Regular marines are even faster because you can paint the bolters seperately and you don’t have so many fiddly emo black bits / emo skulls / emo seals / emo gold bits that the death company are so fond of to paint in.

When I figure out how to speed base I’ll let you all know!

Space Marines: Mr Lazy Has Been Painting Blood Angels With The Army Painter Quickshade


I’ve always a fan of speed painting, as you regular reading spambots will be aware. This week I decided to try a system called ‘The Army Painter’ by some guys form Denmark. I visited their website by chance and noticed they had a tutorial on painting Blood Angels and cooking bacon. Seemed simple enough, so I bought the stuff and gave it a try.

Overall impressions: Great! Bearing in mind I put zero effort whatsoever into these, they’ve turned out to a decent gaming standard. Yes they’re never going to win Golden Demon, and yes all the pro painters will sarcastically say ‘Hur hur yeah it looks like you put no effort in…’ and no, the bases aren’t finished, but heck, I got five miniatures for about fifteen minutes work, and these are above some of the standards I’ve seen in my gaming adventures.

Technique:

1 ) Assemble marines without bolters.
2 ) Spray marines with ‘The Army Painter’ dragon red (really impressed with the spray)
3 ) Paint bolters with mithril silver
4 ) Assemble models
5 ) Paint details in base colours (eg skulls, seals, badges etc)
6 ) Dip the whole model into the pot of ‘The Army Painter Quickshade’ (dark tone)
7 ) Shake off excess
8 ) Leave to dry for at least 24 hours
9 ) Apply decals with decal solvent, paint base
10 ) Apply two coats of ‘The Army Painter Matt Varnish’

Things I have learned –

– You’ve got to be good with spray techniques for best effects. I think I overdid it a bit and applied a big fat coat. The instructions specifically say spray at point blank range but in future I will probably take more time and apply two or three light coats.

– Games Workshop shoulder pad decals are not fit for purpose. I’ve always had problems with these. Nice flat decal, nice rounded shoulder pad. I thought I had conquered this problem by using decal solvent, but it’s still a pain in the butt. Are moulded shoulder pads the future?

– Spray varnishing is very technique sensitive. I went for the point blank heavy coat approach and ended up with some wrinkles on the models. I will be spraying long range and lightly in future!

Overall, I think ‘The Army Painter’ system has massive potential. The products are of very high quality and work as described. However, getting the best results seems to be very technique sensitive so lots of practice is advised. I will continue to use this system as it allows me to get my forces looking decent with minimal effort. More time for gaming!

Tyranid Tactica 1.01


After my rather uncomfortable game last Saturday, I have thought long and hard about how the new Tyranids work in battle.  I have also managed to get another game in in the week (2000 pts), and I’m starting to get a picture of how they work.  So with this I have decided to talk about some of the new tactics that can be used with the Tyranids.  I’ve heard that there is some fuss over the Swarmlord and the Doom of Malan’tai, and for now I will not be adding my voice to these debates.  As my gaming friends can tell you I have a slight aversion to using special characters.  I can see the negative comments coming in right now, but I find that most of the time they are over priced for what they do, and almost never make their points up.  This might be because I tend to play games no larger than 2000 pts; in which case a 250pt character is a bit too much, or that they have been used badly by my opponents.  Also throughout most of the Tyranid’s history there have never been special characters to use.  But this is off topic; back to Tyranid Tactica.

I know I have only managed 2 games with the new codex, but I have spent the past 16yrs using this particularly nasty alien race and feel like I’m in a good position to comment on their latest evolution.  From the two games I’ve played with the new edition I’ve walked away with 1 draw and 1 win (just) and I can tell you now that they fight in a very different way.

The first is the Synapse Creatures.  This has always been one of the defining features about the Tyranid army, that the will of the Hive Mind overcomes that of the lesser creatures.  There are now more synapse creatures than ever before (Hive Tyrants, Tervigons, Tyranid Primes, Zoanthropes, Tyranid Warriors, Tyranid Shrikes and Trygon Primes), giving you at least one synapse unit for each of your unit options.  The new Tyranids however are less dependent upon the synapse creatures than before.  In previous editions any creatures beyond synapse range would have to take a leadership test (LD 5 for most); if they passed then all was well, if they failed then they fell back automatically.  This ment that synapse was both a strength and weakness to the Tyranids, as the loss of synapse creatures caused your army to run away.  In the new edition this is less of a problem.  If the lesser creatures fail their leadership test then they will either lurk (sit there and shoot at the nearest enemy target) or feed (move and assault the nearest enemy).  I’ve found this works really well, as the stuff you want to get into combat will still run forwards and hit stuff.  You do however have less control over your swarm, and your units are no longer fearless.  Loss of synapse is still a pain in the butt, but it no longer means the end of your army.

Secondly is the way Tyranids fight in combat now.  Most of your units are not equipped with assault grenades (in fact only 3 have them – Lictors, Harpies and Carnifexs).  This means that assaulting into cover is often a very blood affair.  I’ve found that you can no longer just throw units in there (that and the Know No Fear rule for Space Marines is a pain) and expect to win.  You have to think more about your options.  There are ways to overcome this; 1. send in a LARGE unit of something expendable (Termagants cost 5 pts each, use them!) to soak up the attacks, and then follow up with a smaller unit of better fighters (Warriors or Genestealers).  The downside to this is that it leaves one of your more elite units open to enemy fire. 2. send in one of the units that does have assault grenades. 3. send in something that has a high toughness and armour save that’ll survive getting hit first.  In combat just make sure that you don’t do what I have done the past 2 games; forget that scything talons give you a re-roll (yes I did forget it again).

Thirdly (and perhaps most controversially) there is the very real option of a shooting orientated Tyranid army.  The Hive Tyrant, Zoanthrope and Carnifex have been the main source of high powered ranged weaponry for the past 2 editions.  Add to that the new Hive Guard, Pyrovore, Harpy and Tyrannofex.  Plus Warriors are BS 4 if you add a Tyranid Prime.  The Hive are fantastic models, with 2 Str 8 shots they pose a threat to infantry and tanks; their T6 means that they don’t get instant deathed and they don’t need to see their targets to hit them.  The only down side I’ve found is that with a 24″ range you wont be able to hit the vehicles you really want to kill (i.e. barrage artillery).  But this is where the Tyrannofex comes in (I’ve yet to try this model) with its 48″ S10 Assault 2 cannon.  The only problem with this tactic is that you are lacking in AP3 weapons, so you’ll still have to get up close and rend those marines.  The other problem is that some of your more powerful ranged weapons (Warp Blast & Lance, Paroxysm, Leece Essence) are psychic powers and are thus vulnerable to psychic hoods etc.

One of the things that is lacking in the Tyranid army is Invulnerable Saves.  Only the Zoanthropes, Swarmlord and Doom of Malan’tai have one.  This can be a bit of a problem as lascannons wound your monsters and Warriors get instant deathed by krak missiles.  But this is where tactics take over.  In second edition one of the ways to overcome this was the way you deployed your army.  Use your units to provide a 4+ cover save to each other.  Make sure that the units at the front are large and expendable (30 Termagants is only 150pts), place the medium sized creatures behind those (4+ cover save against krak missiles!) and the monstrous creatures behind them – remember that real line of sight applies for the cover saves for monstrous creatures.  Add to this a unit of Venomthropes (I would recommend a full sized unit of these) and a Tervigon with Catalyst to give Feel No Pain to either the unit at the front or to a monstrous creature thats out on its own, and there you have it, your entire army has a 4+ invulnerable save.

For my closing comments, a thought on monstrous creatures.  I’ve heard some people moan about the increased points cost for these beasts.  I will admit I was taken back with it myself.  In previous editions I would never have had a Hive Tyrant that was over 200 pts, now I have little choice.  I personally feel that the Hive Tyrant is worth the points; it’s a powerful commanding model and is capable of taking on tanks and infantry; especially if you have Hive Guard with it.  Paroxysm is a fantastic psychic power for use against Ork mobs and Assault Terminators.  The Carnifex is a lot of points for what it does, and for the first time I’m coming up with army lists that don’t include one.  I used to always use them as there was little else that could take out a tank, but now there are so many other choices.  I wont stop using them totally, and I’m looking forward to using a brood of them, but I’m just going to try other options too.  I’ve found that the Mawloc is great for initial impact as the best part of a unit is swallowed up into the whole it’s just dug, but with only 3 attacks it can get quickly overwhelmed if not supported; especially if the enemy is armed with a powerfist.  After using it in both battles I’d recommend sending it off to take out small squads by themselves, tanks or artillery – especially if these vehicles have been left un-supported.

Well those are some of my thoughts for the first of my Tyranid Tactica articles.  I’ll write more as I come up with ideas and try out new combinations.

How Do You Eat Yours? – Very Quickly… OMNOMNOMNOM


So ZombiePirateXXX has already alluded to various methods of painting and possibilities open. Now I am not as an accomplished painter as he is. When he completes a piece it is normally stunning, and if I have any painting questions I will normally appeal to him.

However, I have an incredibly short attention span and this gives me one massive advantage – I can paint armies very fast. Not just slap dash mind you, up to a decent standard, every model will be highlighted, shaded and based. There are a few secrets therefore I may be able to impart to you, dear spambot.

Plan, and Plan Some More

This is where speed painting big armies really happens. Have a look at your model. What do you want to achieve? Think about a colour scheme. Then, take a few models from the army and paint them. Have a look at the final result and ask yourself some honest questions. Is it good? Is it reproducable over vast swathes of models? Would it look good as an army? Was it quick enough? Here are some considerations I take into account:

Colour

Invariably I always find that when painting an army, less is more. Select just a few colours that complement each other well. I normally aim for around three colours on a model. Fewer colours means shorter painting times, and if you choose the colours well the army will look more cohesive. Ensure that the colours are correctly highlighted and shaded, this will not usually take too long but will make the model look much better.

Also consider using base colours to your advantage. For example, I once painted an Imperial Guard force. For my test model I used white spray as an undercoat. I directly applied a sepia wash to the undercoat and immediately I had a Guardsman in desert combat gear, already shaded and highlighted as the wash turned the recesses dark but left the high points close to white. I could then experiment with making his rifle and body armour slightly different. Eventually I painted his armour and rifle in a desert colour, then sepia washed the entire lot. A bit of work on the face and hands and its nearly complete. Paint the base yellow, add some sand and rocks, drybrush the base, and hey presto, a quickly painted model to a decent standard. I can feel the wrath of experienced model painters everywhere bearing down on me already, that you aren’t supposed to cut corners like this. But heck, this will make your eyes bleed you elitist lot – I once painted an entire skaven army without even undercoating it. Simply applied a wash to the grey plastic. Heck, rats are grey. They turned out rather well actually, looking better than many other armies I have seen which took infinitely longer to finish, and when you have 500 bazillion ratmen to finish its worth doing it.

Basing

Lets not forget the base of the model. I have seen many nice models made to look bad by a poor base. Always at least paint the base. Worst case scenario, get some dark green paint on it. Top Tips – Go to your local pet store and get some bird grit. Looks like little stones on a 26mm base. Also useful – sand, and static grass (like little bits of green fluff). Stick them on with PVA glue, then highlight or shade as you desire. I generally don’t bother painting these additions but shading can add to the effect.

Detailing

Fine detail and symbols to paint? On fifty rank and file models? Forget it! If you are desperate get some decals.

DryBrushing

This is one of the best ways to make a model look good quickly. Learn to drybrush up to a good standard with a big paintbrush. I painted a red Khador Warmachine army using this technique. Spray the models with black undercoat, then apply five layers of drybrush, starting with deep red, progressing in brighter colours until the last drybrush layer is orange. Doesn’t take too long but looks good. Then you can paint in the rest of the model – smokestacks, axes etc.

Washing

Experiment with washes. They can save you hours of shading. Also try the unusual, for example washing straight onto the undercoat as mentioned above.

Varnish

No matter how fast you paint, ensure you varnish your stuff. If you’ve gone with bright colours a good gloss varnish will make them look brighter. If you have cut corners anywhere (example not using an undercoat) the varnish will ensure that the model can be handled without risk of paint damage. It will protect your long erm… hours of hard erm… work.

Final Word

So then, you’ve got 400 models to paint. Establish your technique on one or two then go for it. Paint your special characters seperately to a higher standard. Remember this: Your army will always look infinitely better if it is finished.

How Do You Eat Yours – Part 2


I could probably do with pictures in this thread to illustrate the points I want to make, however, as I am currently going through a major painting project to be unleashed upon my gaming fraternity I don’t want to spoil the surprise for them. After all, seeing my with a fully painted army is likely to cause many of them to slip into a coma, or at least have some kind of seizure.

Today though, I’d like to follow-on from the army construction post with one about how you go about actually painting things. One of the problems I encounter is that I get easily distracted, normally I have a load of stuff on my painting area and therefore have no coherent plan for everything and skip back and forth between bits and pieces. Sometimes it has even gotten to the point where I have the whole army on the table and therefore never finish a unit but see the whole force in a state of non-completion. Therefore I have decided to clear my table of everything but that which I am currently painting, this is to focus my attention so that I can really force myself into finishing something.

Previously I have also built the entire army at the start so that I can then play with it too, this is probably not the best approach either, if I were to not assemble everything I may well be more into getting each unit/model painted before building and doing the next one. This is something I am keeping in mind for the future to facilitate me towards getting armies that are 100% painted.

However, none of that is what I actually wanted to get into debating today. What I really wanted to write about was the actual process whereby a model gets its colours. You may think that you just pick a part and apply some paint, you may have a favourite way of doing things but I’ll provide some options that I am aware that may help if you’re perpetually unsure about where to start once you’ve cleaned, assembled and undercoated your models (if you’re not undercoating your models before painting then may I strongly suggest you start, an undercoat provides a medium for the paint to adhere too, if you don’t perform this critical step you will find the paint will come off very easily once dry).

Inside Out

The first method I want to go through is the way that I am currently painting my models. The premise here is exactly the way it sounds, you start at the lowest level on detail on the model (usually the skin) and then work your way up. The major problem that can be encountered here is that one slip can ruin work already performed but provides a great way of building up decent shading through the separation of the layers of the model. If you are a fairly neat and competent painter you shouldn’t have any real issues using this method. It also allows you to touch up areas where you have gone astray as you will normally be working on the layer where natural run off will go as you paint.

Outside In

This is the opposite to Inside Out, you start off with the outermost layer and work down, I’ve never tried this method so cannot comment on it however again there is potential for you to muck up a completed layer as you strive for details, especially on things like faces.

Painting Metals First

This is actually combined with one of the previous methods (or one of your own) but involves getting all the metals done on a model, these are then varnished before starting on the rest of the model. If you have models with a large amount of metalwork (Knights or warjacks for instance) you might consider doing this method. Any overrun can be easily wiped off without destroying the metalwork already completed.

Ad-hoc Method

This is the method I’ve used to great failure in the past. Grab a model, paint some bits, move on etc… This has never really worked for me I have to admit, hence trying to move to a more structured method that may see some results. I wouldn’t really recommend anyone to use this method at all, without a proper plan there is little motivating you to get things finished.

That’s just a quick brief about the different ways in which you can go about getting paint on a model. Actually getting an army painted though is another matter. You’re going to need to plan out how you’re going to get each piece painted as well as things like colour schemes, basing schemes and the order in which you want to do things. As a part of this current project I am trying to do unit > character > unit > character in order to break up having to paint large batches of similar figures. Effectively rewarding myself with a single model after painting a unit of models. I am also trying to do a conga line whereby I do a coat of a certain part of one model before moving on and doing the same piece for another model of the same unit. I realise this isn’t going to work for single models but I am hoping that it’ll mean I can complete the units quicker than I otherwise could.

Having a plan like this is really crucial if you plan on finishing what you start. I really need a painted army at this point, nothing I have is really finished and for all the years I’ve been doing this I should have something to show for it. Hence my current push to try and get this done. Structuring the project is helping me to stay on track, although with Christmas rapidly approaching I can already see things slowing down a little while the inevitable family visits and shopping trips come along.

There you have it, a brief intro into how to go about painting things, I’d be interested in hearing comments about how anyone else goes about these things.

Full Tilt! Part Two: The Longest Knight


Continuing with my heavy cavalry theme, I wanted to have a look at the various heavy cavalry units available to the Warhammer player, provide some insites into each unit and give my personal opinion as to which unit is the best (if there is such a thing).  And by ‘best’ I don’t just mean raw power, but a combination of killing potential, survivability, special rules and value for points.  But before I start analysing I first want to set a bench mark for what is a heavy cavalry unit.  Heavy cavalry are typically an elite unit in the army and as such tend to have a stats line to go with it, ideally at least WS 4 and LD 8; they also tend to have a very good armour save, usually 2+; and armed with a weapon that gives them a strength bonus on a charge i.e. lance or spear.  Points wise most are around 27pts, but three units do go above 50pts.  With these basic ideals let’s have a look at the units available to each of the armies.

Bretonnia. It seems appropriate to start with the army that epitomises heavy cavalry; 5 out of the 10 units available to the Bretonnians are such units.  The Bretonnians also have 2 special rules that provide them with a distinct advantage over other heavy cavalry; purebred warhorses and the lance formation.  The purebred warhorse means that they not slowed by having barding and so have a M 8 compared to the standard M 7 for most other heavy cavalry.  This means that they are more likely to charge than be charged, even against other cavalry units.  The lance formation is a special unit formation that allows the Bretonnian knights to gain rank bonuses for every 3 models instead of 5 like other units.  It also allows more models in the unit to fight in combat.  Take a typical 10 model unit, in any other army this would allow 5 models to fight and give you a rank bonus of +1; for the Bretonnians it allows 8 models to fight and gives a rank bonus of +2.  For static combat resolution this gives you a big advantage, and means that a Bretonnian knight unit can even take on full blocks of infantry head on.  And remember that all can have a ward save if the player chooses to go second.  So what units have they got?

Knights Errant: A basic heavy cavalry unit, 2+ save and lance armed.  Pros; Cheap (only 20pts each!) and their Impetuous rule means that they are Immune to Psychology when they charge.  Cons; they’re only WS 3 and LD 7, so below average knights and the Impetuous rule means they are slightly uncontrollable (think frenzy, but without the bonus attack). Knights of the Realm: A standard heavy cavalry unit; you must have at least one unit of these in your Bretonnian army.  Pros; Lance formation, Purebred Warhorse.  Cons; None really. Questing Knights: An elite heavy cavalry unit armed with a great weapon instead of a lance.  Pros; +1 S all the time, Immune to Panic.  Cons; 3+ save, strike last because of great weapon. Pegasus Knights: A flying (yes flying!) heavy cavalry unit.  Pros; fast moving, T 4, W 2.  Cons; No rank bonuses and expensive (55pts). Grail Knights: The elite of Bretonnian chivalry.  Pros; Immune to Psychology, WS 5, I 5, A 2, magical attacks, ward save.  Cons; Slightly expensive for a T3 model (38pts).

Daemons of Chaos. Yes the Daemons do have a heavy cavalry unit.  Bloodcrushers of Khorne: A crazed Bloodletter riding a snorting brass Juggernaut – scary!  Pros; Immune to Psychology, ward save, killing blow, WS 5, S 6, T 4, W 2, fear, magical resistance.  Cons; Instability means they wont last after the charge, 4+ armour save, very expensive (70pts!) which means no rank bonuses (unless you want to spend 700pts).

Dark Elves. Cold One Knights: A sadistic, hate-filled elf riding a velociraptor.  Pros; Fear, WS 5, I 6, LD 9, hatred.  Cons; Stupidity.

The Empire. Knightly Orders: A standard heavy cavalry unit.  Pros; 1+ save, option of lance or great weapon.  Cons; None really, but they’re nothing special either.

High Elves. Silver Helms: Elven nobles in bright, shinny armour that makes them easier to see.  Pros; Cheap (21pts), fast moving (M 8), always strikes first.  Cons; Urm . . . it costs another 2 pts for a shield? Sorry its the best I can come up with.  Dragon Princes: Fire Proof knights.  Pros; WS 5, I 6, A 2, LD 9, always strikes first, M 8, Immune to all flamming attacks/spells.  Cons; Expensive for a S 3 model (30pts), but what do you expect, they’re wimpy elves.

Lizardmen.  Cold One Cavalry: A dinosaur riding another dinosaur, how bizarre.  Pros; T 4, A 2, fear, cold blooded.  Cons; Stupidity, I 2.

Orcs & Goblins.  Orc Boar Boyz: Smelly and bad tempered, and then there’s the boar.  Pros; T4, boar gains +2 S on the charge, cheap (22pts).  Cons; I 2, 3+ save, boar is better than Orc in combat (no seriously it is).

Tomb Kings. I almost didn’t include this unit, it barely counts as heavy cavalry.  Skeleton Heavy Horsemen: A skeleton riding a skeletal equine.  Pros; Fear, Immune to Psychology, can be brought back from the dead, cheap (16pts).  Cons; Where do I start? WS 2, I 2, 4+ save, will crumble to dust if beaten in combat or if the Hierophant is killed, can’t march move, armed with a spear and not a lance, in fact why did I include them?

Warriors of Chaos. Yes the unit you’ve all been waiting for.  Chaos Knights: They need no introduction.  Pros; (so many) WS 5, T 4, A 2, fear, re-roll panic tests, 1+ save, ensorcelled weapons (+1 S and magical attacks), and can be given Marks of Chaos to make them even harder.  Cons; They’re expensive (40pts basic) and even more so if you given them lances or Marks of Chaos.

Vampire Counts. Dead things riding.  Black Knights: A long dead hero riding a ghostly horse.  Pros; T 4, killing blow with every weapon, ignore terrain movement penalties, fear, immune to psychology, can be raised from the dead.  Cons; Will crumble if they are beaten in combat or if the general dies, WS 3, cannot march move.  Blood Knights: Blood thirsty, psychopathic vampire knights.  Pros; WS 5, S 5, T 4, A 2, fear, frenzied, Immune to Psychology, can be brought back from the dead.  Cons; Very expensive (55pts), can crumble if beaten in combat, frenzy makes them a little uncontrollable.

So now comes the hard part, which one do I think is the best unit?  This will no doubt be controversial, and other people will have their own opinions, but there you go.  For pure brute force I think its a tie between the Chaos Knights and the Blood Knights, both are capable of utter distruction, however both units are also very expensive (you can get two of most of the other knights for the cost of one Blood Knight).  The best value for points I feel has to be the Silver Helms; they have a WS 4, I 5, ok a 3+ save unless you pay 2 pts for a shield (which still makes them cheaper than most other knight units), they have a M 8, but best of all they have the always strikes first, which means that it doesn’t even matter if they get charged even though they can out charge most units.

But for me best overall I think has to be the Knights of the Realm; they only cost 24pts (making them below average cost), true they don’t have lots of attacks or a very high WS, but you can have lots of them for your points, and they can get big rank bonuses really easily – something the other heavy cavalry units will struggle to do.  They also can gain a ward save if the Bretonnian player chooses to go second (a nice trade off).  With the additional attacks gained from the lance formation a good sized unit should have no trouble taking a full infantry block head-on, making them more versitile – you don’t have to be too picky about your targets.  And to top it all off they move as fast as the elven heavy cavalry, so enemy knights beware, because they’ll out-charge you.